| THE MG |
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 | |  | November 27, 2008 - Time to pull the engine.
In case I have to put it back in, it's good to know the official manual will be very useful - check out step 35.
entry 80 - tags: dismantling, engine | | |  | November 27, 2008 - The MG has the largest AC compressor I think I've ever seen in a car.
Even the one in my 1966 Cadillac is smaller - and that one has a 7.2 litre V8 to turn it, not a little 1.8 four. That's the alternator on the right for a size comparison.
entry 81 - tags: dismantling | | |  | November 27, 2008 - After about two hours of work, the engine is ready to come out.
It all went pretty easily with very few recalcitrant fasteners. The only one that gave me any trouble was a pre-rounded nut on the driveshaft, but I won. I always win.
This car was in sad shape mechanically. There are missing fasteners, unplugged sensors and general hack work hidden around. But it sure looks solid, which is what counts.
The engine will get pulled tomorrow when I have Janel's help. Right now, the hoist is sitting out in a cold rain and I don't feel like wrestling it in.
This picture makes it look like some sort of exchange is going on. Nope, I just can't seem to work on a single car at a time. Also, the garage is not as messy as this picture makes it look!
entry 82 - tags: dismantling | | |  | November 28, 2008 - The engine is out!
Janel feels a bit sad for the poor little MG, but not too sad as you can see from the look on her face. The drivetrain came out fairly easily, without any terrible surprises. It took less than three hours to pull, including the usual learning curve tricks of trying to figure out where to attach the hoist. I didn't even need a second set of hands, Janel came down to spectate.
I think this car is going to be a good basis for the swap.
entry 83 - tags: dismantling, Janel | | |  | November 28, 2008 - The nekkid engine bay.
That front subframe has mounting points that are just under 19" apart. The Miata subframe? Right about 32", as the tape measure indicates. One thing's for sure, the new subframe will free up an enormous amount of room. At the expense of a small bit of work.
entry 84 - tags: engine bay, subframe | | |  | November 28, 2008 - Here's a shot of the only MGB - that I know of - to be fitted with Miata suspension.
The car was never completed, but it's very useful info. I've shown the rear subframe installation in the past, here's a shot of what was done up front. New frame arms. I'm going to do a little more reinforcing, especially of the upper shock mounts.
This picture also shows how much more potential space there is with the new setup. Combine that with a tubular front subframe like this one and all sort of room opens up.
entry 85 - tags: engine bay, subframe | | |  | November 30, 2008 - I wheeled the car outside and went nuts with the pressure washer.
The car's actually pretty clean considering it's 37 years old. None of the really thick oil-and-dirt goo I expect on something this age.
Once that was done, I brought the car back into its home for the next few months and put it up on jackstands. I was careful to get the car level, this will make it a lot easier to fabricate everything properly!
entry 86 - tags: dismantling | | |  | November 30, 2008 - The next step was to pull the front subframe.
Not a difficult task. It's astoundingly heavy. I forgot to weigh the car before taking it apart (whoops) but it's possible the V8-powered result could weigh less than the original.
I'm starting to reconsider the independent rear suspension. It would be cool to do, but it would be easier - and cheaper - to simply have the Camaro rear end cut down and reworked to run a 4x100 bolt pattern to accept Miata wheels. The solid rear isn't my first choice, but it's how the car was designed to run in the first place and there's a good body of knowledge on locating the rear axle already. Plus, it'll save a bunch of cash and I won't have to redesign the entire rear end of the car.
This car was never meant to be a lap record holder, but it'll end up on track at some point. Hmm. Decisions, decisions.
entry 87 - tags: dismantling, suspension | | |  | November 30, 2008 - The current engine bay.
I'll build up a brace to keep the front in line, then chop out those frame rails and inner fenders before building some new rails to fit the Miata subframe. My biggest worries are aligning the new parts and making sure I have sufficient strength, but looking at the factory stuff makes me wonder how much I need to be concerned about the latter. Still, it's going to see more stress than before. I should have an LS3 to measure for dimensions later this week, that'll help put me on the right track.
entry 88 - tags: dismantling | | | December 1, 2008 - I posted some questions about shortening the Camaro axle to the Grassroots Motorsports forum.
A good bit of information popped up: the Chevy S10 pickup used the same 7.5" rear end, but with a much narrower axle. In the case of the 2WD model, the axle is actually a little bit narrower than the Miata one. That's perfect! It gives me a little more room for wider tires and I'll have a cheap option.
I'll still have to adapt the axles for disc brakes (I can't bring myself to run drums) and convert them to a 4x100 bolt pattern. All possible. I have a good feeling about this, I think it'll be a good solution.
An extra bit of info from the LS1Tech forum - the 1998+ S10 use the same 28-spline axles as my Camaro, earlier trucks use a 26-spline. Very important to know.
entry 89 - tags: suspension | | |  | December 4, 2008 - Time to do a test-fit of the suspension.
In order to get it in approximately the right place, I'm going to set the lower control arm up so a line drawn between the inner and outer pivot points is horizontal. Most people try to set the arm horizontal, but it's the pivot points that matter. So step 1 is to figure out how high they should be off the ground.
I attached an upright to a wheel and measured the distance from the ground (approximately 8.5"), then figured out how high the car was jacked up (10" above normal ride height). So I want my pivot points 18.5" above the garage floor.
entry 90 - tags: suspension | | |  | December 4, 2008 - I can't lift the subframe quite as high as I'd like without cutting something, but here's an idea of the location.
Pretty good, actually. That rear mounting point should actually attach right to the bottom of the stock frame rail. The rails converge and rise in the engine bay, where I need them to spread wider apart. This is going to go fairly well, I think.
entry 91 - tags: suspension | | |  | December 4, 2008 - Of course, what I really wanted to know what how the wheel looked on the car.
Would my painted Miata wheels suit it? How far would it stick out of the fender well?
The answer is that it looks good. I like it. The tire diameter is 23" instead of the stock 24" on the MG, but I can probably live with that. I can run a 205/55-14 RA-1 (or some similar R-compound) to give me good traction without having to use a ridiculous tire size, and a 225/45-15 is a future possibility. The fact that I have a set of the RA-1s on these wheels in this size already is just icing on the cake.
entry 92 - tags: suspension, tires, wheels | | |  | December 4, 2008 - The tire does stick out a bit.
About as much as I'd expected based on my measurements, which is reassuring. A rough test fit shows that the Rabbit fender flare covers it almost perfectly. I'll pull one of the RA-1s off and test fit with that as well, but I have a good feeling about this - as long as I stick close to the stock +45 wheel offset, anyhow. I should probably make sure the +30 wheels with 205/50-15s fit, as that's what half of my race tires are.
The fairly radical camber is because I assembled this suspension out of spare parts and everything's just finger-tight. No attempt at alignment has been attempted!
entry 93 - tags: body, flares, wheels, tires, suspension | | |  | December 4, 2008 - Okay, I should stay away from that combination.
A +30 offset wheel with a 205/50-15 sticks out 3/4" further from the body. As the math says it should - there should be 20mm more when compared to a 195/60-14 on a +45 wheel. The flares don't quite cover them with room for wheel movement. That's okay, I can run a greater offset. We'll see exactly where the flares end up when they're welded in.
I pulled the rear axle off as well. There's a lot of room under there now!
entry 94 - tags: body, wheels, tires | | |  | December 6, 2008 - My secret weapon has arrived!
It's a plastic LS1 from P-Ayr that I picked up from Summit Racing. It weighs next to nothing, letting me pop it in and out of the engine bay easily instead of humping around 500 lbs of metal. All of the factory mounting points are represented by steel inserts, so I can also use this to work out my header setup as well as things like motor mounts. If I wanted, I could even install different heads. There's no plastic version of the T56 transmission yet unfortunately.
Most importantly, this lets me experiment with fitment without taking the Camaro apart quite yet.
It was expensive enough that I'm taking very good care of it, and I should be able to resell it after the build is over. Meanwhile, it's going to make life a lot easier.
entry 95 - tags: engine, replica | | |  | December 6, 2008 - The engine is in!
And there you have it, an LS1 in an MG. Wow, that was easy.
Okay, maybe getting the complete functioning engine with transmission and suspension might be a little more difficult. But still, the first test fit, fits.
I've got the engine positioned to put the shifter in the same place as stock. Actually, it'll end up maybe an inch further forward. This is the best I can do without actually cutting anything other than removing the motor mounts at this point. With the Miata subframe in place, I should have a decent amount of room for headers.
entry 96 - tags: engine, replica, test-fit | | |  | December 6, 2008 - The engine height was set to put the oil pan at or slightly lower than the frame rails.
This is a bit of a guess, but I think it'll work nicely. I might be able to sink it down another 3/4" or so.
With this positioning, the engine ends up in almost exactly the same position relative to the wheels as the Miatas we do at Flyin' Miata. Only the front pair of cylinders are ahead of the wheels and the height looks to be the same. This means I could use an off-the-shelf subframe. Wow, could it be that easy?
The threaded holes in the plastic engine mean I could simply bolt up the extra oil pan. I like this thing more and more...
entry 97 - tags: subframe, engine, replica, test-fit | | |  | December 6, 2008 - A test of the hood clearance will have to wait until I get an intake manifold.
There's one on the way right now. As with a number of the other parts, it'll probably get sold after the swap as I won't need it anymore. But placing a ruler across the edges of the hood opening looks promising. We'll see.
I might be able to push the engine back slightly, which would have a beneficial effect on the weight distribution. But again, given where it sits relative to the Miata and the extra weight of the coupe body in the rear - I think it will work pretty well here.
This picture also shows the huge amount of room I'm building in. There's about 3' of clearance all around the car with my work area up front. This is definitely a home project!
entry 98 - tags: engine, test-fit, replica | | |  | December 6, 2008 - These spare parts are left over from a Miata conversion.
They'll come in handy with my engine test fits, although I don't have a way to mount the crank pulley.
entry 99 - tags: replica | | |
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